Lawn Program for Fescue
Large Lawns
Following this program should give you an excellent lawn
within 3 years (often quicker). This is
recommended for lawns 1 acre or larger.
March 1
-Spread pelletized lime if recommended from
soil test.
-Spread 1 ½ lbs/1000 sq ft of Urea Nitrogen (34-0-0)
over yard and water in (or plan when rain is expected, so rain will do the
job).
March 15
-Use a plug aerator to loosen compacted soil. Go in several directions to ensure lots of
holes (can be done in the fall).
-Spread pre-emergence weed killer (follow
label directions).
-Apply 10-10-10 fertilizer as directed on your soil
test (UT Extension sends soil tests to the state lab for about $8 per sample).
April 15 (or six weeks after first application)
-Spread 1 ½ lbs/1000 sq ft of Urea Nitrogen (34-0-0)
over yard and water in.
-Spread grub control if needed.
April 30 (or six weeks after first application)
-Spread pre-emergence crabgrass weed
killer (Dimension or other granular).
June and July
-Use a weed spray (post-emergent 2, 4D such as Weed
Be Gone) to kill individual weeds that might have missed the pre-emergent.
Can be done in August or September
-Kill off any weedy patches with weed spray
(post-emergent such as Weed Be Gone).
-Repeat in one week if necessary.
-Remove debris with a rake or de-thatcher.
-Loosen soil in bare areas that need to be seeded.
-Seed lawn or over-seed patch areas ensuring seed is
in contact with soil (Seeding should be done by Oct 15; sometimes warm falls and winters
will allow for later seeding.)
-Apply 10-10-10 fertilizers as directed by your soil
test. (I recommend 10-10-10 because if
it gets in flowerbeds it is less likely to harm anything.)
-Apply pelletized lime if recommended by soil
test and if NOT applied in spring.
-Apply any pest controls that might be needed (grub
controls).
-Cover large patches of seeded areas with straw.
-Water in and keep new seeded areas moist until
germinated.
-Mow newly planted grass when it is 5 - 6 inches
tall; only remove 1/3 of the finished lawn height (3 – 4 inches).
November 15
-Continue mowing grass as needed until growth slows.
*This program is designed
for 10-10-10 fertilizer (the state lab sends soil recommendations for 10-10-10,
13-13-13, and 15-15-15). This program
will encourage the grass to grow deeper roots and keep weed seeds from
germinating. Remember that
pre-emergent weed killer products do not distinguish between good seeds and bad
seeds that is why you do not seed in spring.
**Mow
fescue to 3 – 4 inches tall. Any shorter
will encourage weeds and can kill off the grass. Aerate soil once per year or as needed to
combat compacted soil.
Lawn Program for Fescue
Small Yards
This
program is recommended for lawns less than 1 acre and should product a nearly
weed free, healthy lawn within 3 years.
March 1
-Use a plug aerator to loosen
compacted soil.
-Spread pelletized lime if recommended by
soil test.
-Spread
a Weed & Feed fertilizer according to directions.
March 15
-Spread grub control only if needed (these controls may
kill earthworms as well).
April 30
-Spread a Weed & Feed fertilizer with Crabgrass
control following directions.
June and July
-Use a post emergent weed spray (2, 4D such as
Weed-B-Gone) to kill specific weeds that might have been missed by the pre-emergent.
-Late July or early August: if you have a problem with winter weeds
(especially annual blue grass), use a Weed & Feed Fertilizer with a
pre-emergent weed killer (like Scotts with Halts). A second application may be recommended on
the package so read directions thoroughly.
Can be done in August or
September
-Kill off any weedy patches with post-emergent weed
spray (i.e. Weed-B-Gone).
-Repeat if necessary about 7 – 10
later.
-Remove debris with a rake or
de-thatcher.
-Loosen soil in any bare areas that
need to be seeded.
-Seed
lawn or over-seed patch areas ensuring seed is in contact with soil.
Seeding should be done by Oct 15th; sometimes warm fall and
winter will allow for later seeding.
-Apply a seed starter fertilizer if new lawn or 10-10-10
is overseeding.
-Apply grub control if needed (this may also kill
earthworms).
-Apply pelletized lime if not done in the
spring and recommended by soil test.
-Cover large patched areas or new lawn with
landscape straw.
-Water in and keep newly seeded areas moist until
germinated.
-Mow newly planted grass when it is 5-6 inches tall:
only remove 1/3 of the finished lawn height (6 inches tall – 2 inches = 4
inches of finished grass height).
SON (September, October, November)
-If you are not overseeding an
established lawn, you may fertilize with any good fertilizer during these
months.
*This
program will encourage grass to grow deeper roots and keep weed seeds from
germinating. Remember that
pre-emergent weed killer products do not distinguish between good seeds and bad
seeds that is why you do not seed in the spring.
**Mow fescue to 3 – 4
inches tall. Any shorter will encourage
weeds and can kill off the grass. Aerate
soil once per year or as needed to combat compacted soil.
Yard Calculations
This is the official calculation for ammonium
nitrate. In truth, I cut mine in half
and the grass does great (100 lbs on 1 ½ acres of grassy area.) Again less is more.
10’
x 100’ = 1000 sq ft
32’
x 32’ = 1000 sq ft
1
acre = 43,560 sq ft
1
acre = 43.5 areas of 1000 sq ft
Urea
Ammonium (34-0-0) means there are 34 lbs.
of urea ammonium in 100 lbs. of product (the remainder is filler). There are 17 lbs in a 50 lb bag.
For
3 lbs / 1000 sq ft, a 50 lb bag will cover 5.6 areas of 1000 sq ft. or 400 lbs
will cover 1 acre of grass.
For
1.5 lbs / 1000 sq ft, a 50 lb bag will cover 11.3 areas of 1000 sq ft or 200
lbs will cover 1 acre of grass.
Adjust
spreader to achieve the correct coverage.
Do a test area (10 x 100 or 32 x 32) to arrive at correct setting.
